Cleaning The Onboard Water Tank

Posted Posted in Caravaning

Poly tanks usually don’t have a plastic taste after an initial fill and flush.

Any plastic taste usually comes from garden hoses or poor quality food grade hoses used to fill the tank.

To clean the onboard water tank, try draining the tank, then refill with fresh water and a cup of (Non Scented) Bleach. Any brand that you use at home will do.

Leave for a day or two then empty the onboard water tank.

Fill & flush, then refill again.

This is the most common method and usually works well.

Caravan Channel UHF 18

Posted Posted in Travelling

Caravan CB, UHF 18 and CB 18 started in 1999 with the first lot of Caravan Survey forms put out through caravan parks in Dubbo asking for comment and suggestions. It is still growing and has been adopted by many, many individuals and by Caravan Clubs in Queensland, Canberra, Melbourne, Western Australia and elsewhere.

uhf18_1.jpgIt aims to promote communication and improved road safety by giving vanners a recognised channel for on road chat and information. By signing caravans with stickers nominating Channel 18 (UHF or AM/CB) front and rear, it allows truckies to know where to call up vanners, say Hello and to overtake safely. In being able to speak with one another, this diffuses some of the dramas that can occur when, without this direct contact the vanner and the truckie can both be guessing and or making assumptions as to what the other is going to do. Channel 18 was chosen to avoid the UHF repeater channels of 1 to 8 and the return channels of 31 to 38. Please do not use UHF 35 as it is the return channel for the emergency channel 5, when a repeater is in use. It is illegal and could interfere with an emergency.

uhf18_3.jpgTruckies have utilised CB, and now more so UHF radios for many years and whilst mobile phones have lessened their importance, they can still provide an enormous safety benefit. We can now extend this to caravans by making contact when needing to overtake and improving road safety for both groups.

uhf18_2.jpgMany vanners are new to CB/UHF so give them a fair go and please be aware that bad language, particularly on UHF with its 10 kilometre range goes much further than those who hear it, in further tarnishing our frail and battered public image. Here is a chance to show we are human and safe and courteous drivers who do wish to share the road and see all get home safely to families and loved ones, us included. Now it is up to us as truckies to use this safety benefit. Please give it a try and make our workplace safer and better respected.

Safe Travelling, Rod Hannifey, Road Transport and Road Safety Advocate.

Load Levelling Devices – The Real Story

Posted Posted in Caravaning

Definitive statements that these units are NOT required or should not be used are being promulgated widely on a number of forums and Barry from Cabolture Caravan Repairs feels that these comments can, and will, be taken as gospel by a novice caravanner.

A copy of his comments is posted here for future reference:

A degree of reality has to be reached where CORRECT information is disseminated through the Forum or, if this can’t be controlled, then the correct information should be placed in a readily accessed area of the forum as a public service, not just for the use of members but so that casual browsers can be correctly informed as well. This definitive information is critically important to the overall well being and reputation of the caravan fraternity, particularly when the safety of all road users is involved.

Briefly, the use of a correct load levelling device is, in most instances, NOT left to the personal choice of the owner. The vast majority of vehicles used to tow caravans, [and other trailers], in Australia are specifically required to be fitted with such a device when towing, not just when towing a large caravan or at the option of the owner, but when towing a trailer – period. It would take many pages of documentation to define all models and all specifics but in general the popular towing vehicles that MUST be fitted with such a device when towing include the following

Toyota – most models including all popular towing units.
Holden – most models including all popular towing units.
Mitsubishi – most models including all popular towing units. Pajero when the towed load exceeds 1350kg.
Ford ‘F’ Trucks – all models.
Mazda – most models including all popular towing units.
Jeep – most models including all popular towing units.
Suburu – most popular towing models.
Korean 4WD’s – most towing capable models are required to use a load levelling device.
European 4WD’s – most towing capable models are required to use a load levelling device.

Popular towing Vehicles that are not specifically required to be fitted with load leveling devices but to which serious consideration should be given to fitting such a device include:

Ford – in most instances requirements are not specifically stated, refer to owner’s handbook or owner’s choice. Some Ford models have speed limits relative to towed weight and other more specific requirements.

Nissan – in most instances requirement is not specifically stated, refer to owner’s hand book or owner’s choice. Some Nissan models have a variable ball weight allowance relative to the vehicle load.

There are many others of course but I thought that listing these particular units covered a reasonable range of popular towing units.

An important point to remember is that these requirements apply to all towing, whether it be a caravan, camper trailer, boat trailer, large box trailer or horse float.

Anyone who wants to obtain definitive information regarding their specific vehicle should :

  1. Read the fine details in the owner’s hand book.
  2. Contact the Engineering section of the vehicle manufacturer and request specifically defined advice regarding the vehicle in question. In general it is a waste of time talking to a dealer or a salesperson in a dealership, they usually either don’t know or don’t care. [The same thing often applies in many caravan dealerships.]
  3. Contact a member of the R.V.M.A.A. or a member of a State Caravan Trades Associations [eastern states], and request the relevant information from the Towing Mass Guide which should have been supplied to those members. This guide is usually up-dated bi-annually and is for in house use but it can be used as an information source for owners or buyers of caravans. The N.R.M.A., the R.A.C.Q. and similar bodies may also be able to help.

After being involved in the Caravan Industry for over thirty years, both as a Repairer and a Designer/Manufacturer, it is my personal opinion that anyone who uses a van of any size without the appropriate load leveling device installed is a fool and a danger both to himself and to other road users. I make this comment with total regard to the opinions that many owners have of their personal abilities when towing. No one can foretell the unforeseen, and it is the unforeseen that will bite these fools on the backside when the worst case scenario takes place.

The overall state of accurate knowledge supplied by, and for the R/V Industry is usually poor to say the least. Some of the set ups on some of the rigs that call in to our establishment for service or repair are frightening to behold. Frankly, for example, the concept of a lightweight towing vehicle with a towing allowance of 3000kg of pull and 300kg on the towball being used to tow a van of this size without a weight distributing device terrifies me. Braking must be compromised, handling must be compromised and driving comfort must be at a minimum.

Get with the programme guys.



Port-A-Loo Raiser

Posted Posted in Caravaning

Here’s a great idea to lift your portable toilet without taking up valuable room in your caravan.

  1. Even before buying the material keep chanting “Measure twice, cut once”
  2. The Loo Raiser is made from a 600 x 900 piece of 19 mm outdoor ply.
  3. The critical measurements are:
    1. length of storage space into which the support will fit (54 cm)
    2. max diagonal across base (44 cm)
    3. amount of lift required (200 – 250 mm)
    4. max width of support board (320 mm)
  4. 3 a) less 3 b) left 50 mm / 2″ each end – a good hunk of meat left behind.
  5. Board height (900 mm) less 3 d) divided by two said each of the base boards could be up to 290 mm high, again 50 mm to ‘cup’ the loo to save it sliding forward or back or sideways.

Next cut the sheet of ply into 1 of 600 x 320 and 2 of 600 x 290, and then trim these to 2 of 540 x 290.

Carefully measuring the middle of each, mark where the notches will be, allow for the fact that the board will not be crossing at right angles but more at 120 / 60 degrees and use a set square to mark the channel 20 mm wide (remember board is 19 mm thick). Cut the notches with the jigsaw base slightly rotated to give the required angle.

Then measure the size of the trough to be cut into the top of each board to keep it snug so that the loo won’t slide.

If you cut the base board over size you can cut locator notches into each corner. These can be cut freehand with the jigsaw. It worked perfectly first time.

Before taking it all apart (and save trouble re-assembling it) mark a large letter “A” on the three surfaces that need to go together.

Stain it with some decking oil to preserve the wood and hide any mud or dirt. The finishing touch could be some rubber feet in case the ground isn’t smooth or level.

The off cut from the base board will make a great jack plate for soft ground.